Russet. Plum. Cocoa. Lavender. Silver-sage. Shadows of purple. Out into a landscape of Albert Namatjira colours. We've landed at Paraburdoo, welcomed by a massive goanna, which looks almost as ancient as the land itself. There's a giant grasshopper. As we drive to Tom Price, the size of everything about this place hits me, as it does every time I come here. Everything is scaled up in the Pilbara: the land, the horizon, its age, even the insects.